Coppola

Anna Magnani, still image from the movie "Bellissima" by Luchino Visconti — Anna Magnani, still image from the movie “Bellissima” by Luchino Visconti, 1951, courtesy National Film Library – Film Experimental Centre

Fashion dialogues with art, telling about the fashion in the atelier and the Italian fashion history, the haute couture from its rise to the late Sixties. That is the core of “Bellissima. The Italy of high fashion 1945-1968”, exhibition curated by Maria Luisa Frisa, Stefano Tonchi and Anna Mattirolo, organized in collaboration with Altaroma and in main partnership with Bulgari which will be opened on 30^th November 2014 at 7:30 pm and will be held from 2^nd December 2014 to 3^rd May 2015 in Rome at the MAXXI Museum. The exhibition talks about high fashion, Italy and its creative synergies, by using photography and art, giving rise to an open dialogue between different disciplines.

A model at the Rome Capitol Museums, behind the Constantine monument, wearing a dress by Fontana Sisters (1952), photo by Regina Relang (courtesy of Münchner Stadtmuseum, Sammlung Fotografie, Archiv Relang) — A model at the Rome Capitol Museums, behind the Constantine monument, wearing a dress by Fontana Sisters, 1952, photo Regina Relang (courtesy of Münchner Stadtmuseum, Sammlung Fotografie, Archiv Relang)

Original sketch by Karl Lagerfeld, Fall/Winter 1967-1968, photo © Pierluigi Praturlon/Reporters Associati & Archivi

The photography by Pasquale De Antonis, Federico Garolla, Ugo Mulas catchs the most important moments of this tale and the artworks by Lucio Fontana, Alberto Burri, Paolo Scheggi, Massimo Campigli, Getulio Alviani, Carla Accardi and Giuseppe Capogrossi – coming from the National Gallery of Modern Art – evidence the vital creativity which marked Italy and an age. The creations by couturiers as Germana Marucelli emphasizes the connection existing between art and fashion. It’s a detailed display of fashion, featuring the garnments by Maria Antonelli, Renato Balestra, Biki, Carosa, Roberto Capucci, Gigliola Curiel, Fendi, FontanaSorelle Sisters(as the “Pretino” dress they created in 1955 for Ava Gardner), Irene Galitzine, Fernanda Gattinoni, Mingolini-Guggenheim, Fausto Sarli, Mila Schön, Emilio Schuberth, Simonetta and Fabiani, Valentino, Jole Veneziani along with the accessories by Ferragamo, Fragiacomo, Gucci, Roberta di Camerino, jewelry by Bulgari – including the iconic creations “Snakes”- and fashion jewelry by Coppola and Toppo.

Model of Sorelle Botti, photo Pasquale De Antonis, 1947 — Dress by Botti Sisters, photo Pasquale De Antonis, 1947

Two models wearing dresses by Valentino walking in steps of Central State Archive, photo Federico Garolla, Rome, 1958

Ugo Mulas, Lungo i Navigli, 1958 photo Ugo Mulas © Eredi Ugo Mulas, courtesy Ugo Mulas Archive, Milao – Lia Rumma Gallery, Milan/Neaples — Ugo Mulas, Lungo i Navigli, 1958,
photo Ugo Mulas © Eredi Ugo Mulas, courtesy Ugo Mulas Archive, Milao – Lia Rumma Gallery, Milan/Neaples

The tale of exhibition is embodied in a marvelous catalogue (Electa, € 55.00) opening with a photograph by Garolla, combined with the words by Maria Luisa Frisa revealing what is the core of exhibition, the portrait of couturier and its role, being not just only “a creator, but an individual who observes the society where he lives, questions its many moods, …kneaded by the energy of his time” or bringer and interpret of “Volksgeist”, “The Spirit of people”, in a certain place and time.

Ivy Nicholson wearing a dress by Gattinoni at the Imperial Fora, photo Federico Garolla, Rome, 1954

Giovannelli-Sciarra, photo Fortunato Scrimali published in the magazine Bellezza, n. 9, September 1953 — Giovannelli-Sciarra, photo Fortunato Scrimali
ft. in the magazine “Bellezza”, n. 9, September 1953

Ava Gardner wearing the “Pretino" dress, (created for her by the Sorelle Fontana for a film the actress had to play but the film was never made. The cassock apparel's idea was later taken over by director Federico Fellini for Anita Ekberg in "La Dolce Vita", 1960), 1955, photo Pierluigi Praturlon, courtesy of Historical Archive Micol Fontana Foundation, Rome — Ava Gardner wearing the “Pretino” dress, (created for her by the Fontana Sisters for a film the actress had to play but the film was never made. The cassock apparel’s idea was later taken over by Federico Fellini for Anita Ekberg in the movie “La Dolce Vita”, 1960), 1955, photo Pierluigi Praturlon,
courtesy Archive of Micol Fontana Foundation, Rome

Anita Ekberge ft. in "La dolce vita" by Federico Fellini, 1960, photo Pierluigi Praturlon, courtesy Archivio Fotografico della Cineteca Nazionale - Centro Sperimentale di Cinematografia. Fondo Reporters Associati — Anita Ekberg ft. in “La dolce vita” by Federico Fellini, 1960, photo Pierluigi Praturlon, courtesy Photo Archive of National Film Library – Experimental Film Centre. Fondo Reporters Associati

Bulgari, snake bracelet watch gold, red and green enamel and diamonds, ca1965 — Bulgari, snake bracelet watch gold, red and green enamel and diamonds, 1965

Salvatore Ferragamo, Damigella ankle boots (created for Sofia Loren), 1957, photo Christofer Broadbent

Bulgari, Tubogas gold bracelet-watch, ca 1965 — Bulgari, Tubogas gold bracelet-watch, 1965

The binomial between art and fashion will be also enriched by VB74, the performance created by Vanessa Beecroft exclusively for the exhibition which will be held during its opening. That makes “Bellissima” a not to be missed event and precious, as it dignifies fashion as source of culture and art, bringing again it in the place where it has to be: the museum. I tell that, thinking that can be a first step towards the path giving rise to a Fashion Museum in Italy or – considering also what it happens in other museums as the New York MET Museum the London Victoria & Albert Museum – of specific areas focused on fashion being into a museum.

LA MODA NELL’ ATELIER: LA MOSTRA “BELLISSIMA. L’ ITALIA DELL’ ALTA MODA 1945-1968” AL MUSEO MAXXI DI ROMA

Still image from the movie "The Barefoot Countess" by Joseph L. Mankiewicz, 1954, photo Osvaldo Civirani, courtesy Archivio Fotografico della Cineteca Nazionale - Centro Sperimentale di Cinematografia. Fondo Civirani — Still image from the movie “The Barefoot Countess” by Joseph L. Mankiewicz, 1954,
photo Osvaldo Civirani, courtesy Photo Archive from the National Film Library – Film Experimental Centre. Fondo Civirani

La moda dialoga con l’ arte, raccontando la moda nell’ atelier, la storia della moda italiana e l’ alta moda dalla sua nascita alla fine degli anni Sessanta. Questo è il cuore di “Bellissima. L’ Italia dell’ alta moda 1945-1968”, mostra curata da Maria Luisa Frisa, Stefano Tonchi ed Anna Mattirolo, organizzata in collaborazione con Altaroma e in main partnership con Bulgari che sarà inaugurata il 30 novembre 2014 alle ore 19.30 e si terrà dal 2 dicembre 2014 al 3 maggio 2015 al Museo MAXXI di Roma. Il percorso espositivo della mostra parla dell’ alta moda, dell’ Italia e delle sue sinergie creative avvalendosi della fotografia e dell’ arte, dando vita un dialogo aperto tra diverse discipline.

Creations by De Gasperi Zezza, Fernanda Gattinoni and Sorelle Fontana - Fontana Sisters -, photo Pasquale De Antonis, 1948, published in the magazine I Tessili Nuovi. Estate, n. 37, July – August - September 1948 — Creations by De Gasperi Zezza, Fernanda Gattinoni and Fontana Sisters,
photo Pasquale De Antonis, 1948,
ft. in the magazine I Tessili Nuovi. Summer, n. 37, July – August – September 1948

Fendi, vison, mink coat, 1960. photo © Pierluigi Praturlon/Reporters Associati & Archivi — Fendi, mink coat, 1960. photo © Pierluigi Praturlon/Reporters Associati & Archivi

La fotografia di Pasquale De Antonis, Federico Garolla, Ugo Mulas cattura i momenti più salienti di questo intenso racconto e le opere di Lucio Fontana, Alberto Burri, Paolo Scheggi, Massimo Campigli, Getulio Alviani, Carla Accardi e Giuseppe Capogrossi – provenienti dalla Galleria Nazionale di Arte Moderna – testimoniano la vitale creatività che ha segnato un’ epoca e l’ Italia. Le creazioni di couturiers quali Germana Marucelli enfatizzano il legame tra arte e moda. Una dettagliata rassegna di moda di cui sono protagonisti i capi di Maria Antonelli, Renato Balestra, Biki, Carosa, Roberto Capucci, Gigliola Curiel, Fendi, Sorelle Fontana (come l’ abito “Pretino” da loro creato nel 1955 per Ava Gardner), Irene Galitzine, Fernanda Gattinoni, Mingolini-Guggenheim, Fausto Sarli, Mila Schön, Emilio Schuberth, Simonetta e Fabiani, Valentino, Jole Veneziani unitamente agli accessori di Ferragamo, Fragiacomo, Gucci, Roberta di Camerino, i gioielli di Bulgari – comprensivi delle iconiche creazioni “Serpenti” – e la bigiotteria di Coppola e Toppo.

Two creations by De Gasperi Zezza at Museum of the Baths of Diocletian, photo Pasquale De Antonis, Rome, 1948

Gina Lollobrigida, still image from the movie "Come September" (1961) by Robert Mulligan, ©Universal Pictures — Gina Lollobrigida, wearing jewelry by Bulgari, still image from the movie “Come September” by Robert Mulligan, 1962
©Universal Pictures

Anita Ekberg, wearing Bulgari jewelry, still image from the movie "Call me Bwana" by Douglas Gordon, 1962 — Anita Ekberg, wearing Bulgari jewelry, still image from the movie “Call me Bwana” by Douglas Gordon, 1962

Il racconto della mostra è racchiuso anche in uno splendido catalogo (Edizioni Electa, € 55.00) che si apre con una foto di Garolla, accompagnato dalle parole di Maria Luisa Frisa che svelano ciò che è il nucleo fondante della mostra, il ritratto del couturier e del suo ruolo, il quale non è soltanto “ un creatore, ma un individuo che scruta la società in cui vive, ne interroga i molteplici umori,..impastato dall’ energia del proprio tempo” ovvero portatore e interprete del “Volksgeist”, lo “Spirito del popolo, in un determinato luogo e tempo.

Creations by Fercioni, photo Elsa Robiola, ft. in the magazine Bellezza, n. 5, May 1951 — Creations by Fercioni, photo Elsa Robiola,
ft. in the magazine Bellezza, n. 5, May 1951

'Azalea Rosa', Roberto Capucci, first show: Sala Bianca Palazzo Pitti in Florence, 1961, photo Claudia Primangeli, Archive Roberto Capucci Foundation — “Azalea rosa”dress, Roberto Capucci, first show, Florence Palazzo Pitti White, 1961, photo Claudia Primangeli, Archive of Roberto Capucci Foundation

1969 'Omaggio a Burri' "Homage to Burri", Roberto Capucci, first show at the Rome Capucci atelier in Via Gregoriana, photo Claudia Primangeli, Archive Roberto Capucci Foundation — “Homage to Burri”, Roberto Capucci, first show at the Rome Capucci atelier in Via Gregoriana, 1969, photo Claudia Primangeli, Archive of Roberto Capucci Foundation

Roberto Capucci, first show, Florence Palazzo Pitti White Room, photo Claudia Primangeli, Archive of Roberto Capucci Foundation — Roberto Capucci, first show, Florence Palazzo Pitti White Room, photo Claudia Primangeli, 1959, Archive of Roberto Capucci Foundation

Salvatore Ferragamo, "Decolletè",shoes created for Maliryn Monroe in the movie “Bus Stop” by Joshua Logan, 1965, photo Roberto Quagli — Salvatore Ferragamo, “Decolletè”,shoes created for Maliryn Monroe in the movie “Bus Stop” by Joshua Logan, 1965, photo Roberto Quagli

Bulgari, necklace, earrings, gold and platinum with turquoises, sapphires, diamonds, 1961-1962

Venice, 1966, photo Ugo Mulas © Eredi Ugo Mulas, courtesy Ugo Mulas Archive, Milao – Lia Rumma Gallery, Milan/Neaples

Il binomio tra arte e moda sarà anche arricchito da VB74, la performance creata esclusivamente per la mostra dall’ artista Vanessa Beecroft che si terrà durante la opening. Ciò rende “Bellissima” un evento imperdibile e prezioso, poiché dignifica la moda quale fonte di cultura e di arte, riportandola nel luogo in cui deve stare: il museo. Dico ciò, pensando che questo possa essere un primo passo per il cammino che dia luogo alla nascita di un Museo della Moda in Italia oppure – considerando anche ciò che accade in altre istituzioni museali quali il MET Museum di New York ed il Victoria & Albert Museum di Londra – di specifiche aree dedicate alla moda all’ interno di un museo.

www.fondazionemaxxi.it

It has recently opened the exhibition “Dracula and the myth of vampires” in Milan at the Triennale Design Museum running until 24^th March 2013 and paying homage to the vampire and its most celebrated persona, Dracula, the Count Vlad – who really existed -, depicted yesterday by Bram Stoker and celebrated later by film and famous filmmakers as Murnau, Herzog, Dreyer, Coppola of whose works feature in the exhibition. Fashion, illustrations, costume, art, literature, film and design tells about the myth of vampires (suggestions embodied in the catalogue of exhibition including a bright essay by Cesare Cunaccia): an overview on the vampiresque male elegance made in collaboration with L’ Uomo Vogue catches on photograph the collections created by renowned fashion designers as John Galliano, Roberto Cavalli, Prada, Alexander McQueen, Alexis Mabille and many others. It is also included the illustrations made by the Guido Crepax in late Eighties telling about Dracula, depicting the blood tasting encounter between the sensual heroine he created, Valentina and Dracula. The exhibition also explores the aesthetics of vamp, the female vampire through costumes by Cecilia De Paolis, Danilo Donati, Mauro Pagani, Santuzza Cali, Sylvano Bussotti, the original Afghans burqua owned by the Rome Sartoria Farani and the Dracula’s armor designed by Ishioka Eiko for the film by Francis Ford Coppola which has documented by video installation as well as its original screenplay and story-boards. The refined creativity by Italo Rota gives rise to a catchy installation evoking the proper interiors for a vampire. The exhibition follows with the showcase of books as The Vampyr by John William Polidori, Carmilla by Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu, Dracula by Bram Stoker featuring this charming creature and ends with “Against the common good”, the painting by Francisco José de Goya y Lucientes, two portraits of Vlad the Impaler, posters of shows about the vampire, Ottoman masks, armors, leather plats, bows and swords. An enchanting journey between reality and fantasy under the eternal romanticism of vampire.

LA MOSTRA“DRACULA E IL MITO DEI VAMPIRI” AL MUSEO DEL DESIGN DELLA TRIENNALE DI MILANO

È stata recentemente inaugurata la mostra “Dracula e il mito dei vampiri” a Milano presso il Museo del Design della Triennale che prosegue fino al 24 marzo 2013 e rende omaggio al vampiro ed il suo più celebre personaggio, Dracula, il Conte Vlad – esistito nella realtà – raffigurato ieri da Bram Stoker e successivamente celebrato dal cinema e famosi registi quali Murnau, Herzog, Dreyer, Coppola le cui opere sono protagoniste della mostra. Moda, illustrazioni, costume, arte, letteratura, cinema e design raccontano il mito dei vampiri (suggestioni racchiuse nel catalogo della mostra che includono un brillante saggio di Cesare Cunaccia): una rassegna sulla vampiresca eleganza maschile realizzata in collaborazione con L’ Uomo Vogue immortala le collezioni create da rinomati fashion designers quali John Galliano, Roberto Cavalli, Prada, Alexander McQueen, Alexis Mabille e molti altri. Sono anche incluse le illustrazioni realizzate nella fine degli anni Ottanta da Guido Crepax su Dracula che narrano di Dracula e dipingono l’ incontro al sapore di sangue tra la sensuale eroina da lui creata, Valentina e Dracula. La mostra esplora anche l’ estetica della vamp, la donna vampiro, attraverso i costumi di Cecilia De Paolis, Danilo Donati, Mauro Pagani, Santuzza Cali, Sylvano Bussotti, i burqua afgani di proprietà della Sartoria Farani di Roma e l’ armatura di Dracula disegnata da Ishioka Eiko per il film di film Francis Ford Coppola, documentato da una video installazione come anche dagli originali della sceneggiatura e delle story-boards. La raffinata creatività di Italo Rota arricchisce la mostra dando vita a una accattivante installazione che evoca gli interni appropriati per un vampiro. La mostra prosegue con l’ esposizione di libri quali Il Vampiro di John William Polidori, Carmilla di Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu, Dracula di Bram Stoker di cui é protagonista questa affascinante creatura e si conclude con “Contro il bene comune”, il dipinto di Francisco José de Goya y Lucientes, due ritratti di Vlad l’ Impalatore, locandine di piéces sul vampiro, maschere ottomane, armature, piatti di pelle, archi e spade. Un incantevole viaggio tra realtà e fantasia all’ insegna del romanticismo del vampiro.